Week 1 (2 - 5 Dec)
We arrived in Tokyo after about 9 hours
flight from Sydney. The girls were
fantastic on the flight although didn’t think much of airline food (such
discerning food critics and yes even with a celebrity chef’s name on the
packaging the output still tastes synthetic and bland). We flew into Narita Airport, arrived at about
4.30pm and caught the Express JR train to Shinjuku – which took about 90 mins
(thank goodness we didn’t get a taxi). When
we arrived at Shinjuku station (the busiest in the world) it was absolutely
freezing (about 6 degrees) but luckily we only had a 3 mins walk to the Century
Southern Tower Hotel. At A$225p/n, the
hotel was lovely, big rooms for Tokyo, no minibar or room service but very
comfortable and clean. At about 4am we
woke to an earth tremor and the room moving (just a little but enough to wake
you – bit freaky at 24 stories above the ground). Apparently this happens every few days
somewhere in Japan – which is comforting!
Tokyo is huge with some saying it’s the
largest city in the world. The city
covers 618 square kms and has a population of 17 million people during the day
it certainly isn’t small. It’s also so
spaced out that I’m not sure you could stay anywhere that’s perfect for
everything. In the morning, having
caught a train to Tokyo station and having spent an hour walking around looking
for the Marinuchi Building hoping to grab something to eat, I was wondering why
on earth I’d dragged the family all this way.
The objective was to see the Imperial Gardens but as it was raining so
hard we had to stay underground (which is fine as that’s were all the shops and
entrances to the food and shopping areas are).
Apart from not really knowing our way around we also discovered that not
much opened until about 11 or 12 o’clock. Eventually a lovely Japanese woman asked if
she could help us and walked us the 100 metres to the entrance. We had our Sushi and headed home.
The next day the rain had gone and so we
headed off again to see the Imperial Palace and gardens. I’m not sure if we saw the palace. There were a number of buildings but access
to all was forbidden on the day we were there.
The gardens are large and we spent a good couple of hours wandering
around. Big A could see Tokyo Tower in
the distance so we headed off on foot (for the next 5 hours). They say that guys have difficulty with
measurements often thinking that things are “longer” and “bigger” than they
actually are…well not Big A. It would have
been fine if we didn’t have Middle and Little A’s chants of “I’m starving” to
contend with. Who teaches kids that when
hungry, bypass the word “hungry” and go straight for “starving”? Kids bellies really do change your priorities
when you travel. I’m a foodie but Big A
isn’t so eating is always a negotiation between always and never. Luckily for
me, when it comes to eating, it’s 3 : 1,
(Big A would say he’s outnumbered on a lot of other things too!). On this
occasion though, Big A won out.
During the 5 hour walk and constant “I’m
starving” chants we at least managed to get a bit of sight seeing in and
covered off not only the Imperial Gardens but also Tokyo Tower (built to
resemble the Eiffel Tower) and the Senso-ji, the most famous Buddist temple in
Asakusa where we asked for good-luck in the incense sticks the kids burned and
coins they tossed. Asakusa is also home
to Tokyo’s oldest geisha district with 45 active working geisha – but we didn’t
see any unfortunately. The walk also
gave us the opportunity to see some pretty fantastic local areas and the
contrast of seeing a brand new Bentley parked outside a traditional Japanese townhouse. Popped into KFC (as you do) and the girls had
a photo taken with two Harajuku girls which was fantastic as I just find their
style so beautiful. That night we went for a walk around the local area behind
the First Kitchen which is across from Shinjuku Station (west exit) and the
Luminer shopping centre. I was keen for us to eat “locally” and of course we
were on a budget. So we ended up eating
at a traditional noodle bar. Middle A
was particularly interested in how they cooked and served the noodles which was
a bit like watching my old grandmother wash the laundry 30 years ago in a big
old boiler. So we got our noodles and broth and then we
had to add our “cold” tempura sides. It all sounds ok but the A’s were not
happy. I added soy, shallots and chili
to mine but they had theirs plan which made them bland. The broiled pork cutlet was the highlight for
them – which even when writing this, just doesn’t sound right (which might
explain why I didn’t order it)! In
addition to the cold tempura vegies and unflavoured noodles the kids were also struggling
to eat their noodles with chopsticks – very funny for me but not so much for
them. Perhaps this is what made the pork the highlight as it’s the only thing
they really ate. Big A has declared that
it is the worst meal he’s ever eaten (and that includes a specialty served up
by his dad of microwaved mince with a raw egg in the middle).
On the last day we went for a walk to
Yoyogi Park (but it was closed) and Shinjuku Gyoen where the girls played for a
couple of hours. We were short of Yen so
couldn’t do much and headed to the airport about 5 hours early.
In summary I am glad we went to Tokyo and
would go back there but it really feels like a city you’d appreciate more if
you had money and were more familiar with the geography and language. Off to Hawaii….
Big A’s Perspective “
Ha…the flight to Tokyo would have been a
delight for the Child Bride….I had the 2 girls next to me and she had a seat on
her own!!!
As for Tokyo…I considered it to be big city
that was clean with very few homeless and little graffiti….and the people are
lovely and very courteous.
I am not in love with Japanese food but am
subjected to it enough via the local sushi train to at least be OK with it….but
‘real’ Japanese food is not sushi train food…I found it very difficult to find
decent Japanese food at a reasonable price that didn’t taste like dirty old
underpants.
The Imperial Palace gardens were great
…although you can’t go ‘inside’ the palace …unlike some of the other great
palaces of the world which was a little disappointing but overall it was still
impressive.
Tokyo has a great train transport
system…..but for a travelling family is relatively expensive even with a strong
Aussie dollar and when we visited it was cold and wet which didn’t help the
overall impression….so overall I though it
offered little for a family with small kids….i’d only go back without
kids….as for the Harajuku girls…what
the????
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